Greenie512
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The Small ThorsI’m not going to explain why I’m rebuilding my “stock” Seas Thor transmission lines here, only to say if you really want to know why - read the following link. (1) This is the thread at diyAudio that started the redesign of the Thors - this is 46 pages long so your’ll have to be pretty keen to read through this lot ... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64799&perpage=10&highlight=&pagenumber=1 There are three main designs buried in this lot (a) Fat Thor, (b) Short Thor (I’d call this one Fatter than Fat Thor??) and (c) Small Thor. I think they start around page 11 of the above just scan through them looking at Planet10’s (Dave Dlugos) attachments (2) The theory, Scottmoose’s very detailed explanations and measurements on why the “official” cabinet for the Seas Thor needs revising. .... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=70862&highlight=Thor+small+fat+short (3) And for those who may think this is a BR box, Scott explains why this is a mass loaded transmission line here ... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=744557#post744557
side-side brace, side panel and back. Lower - top/base and front-back brace, ports and drivers See construction ideas under “More stuff-ups” below See separate page for Dave’s actual design Checking that the front-back brace fits tight against drivers.
More stuff-ups ... Nothing to serious on this project so far??? but a few minor cock-ups. (1) Too much enthusiasm not enough thoughtA while ago I bought a set of CMT Dado blades for the table saw, so here was my first real chance to use them. I cut the front, side-side and back panels 10 mm shorter all round than their o/a size and ripped a suitable rebate to hold them around the side panels. Wow, the dado blade eats this kind of work. Remembering the side panels were cut to their max size +3 mm all around for trimming purposes - so rebate was 18 + 3 = 21 mm wide. So hyped about the ease of this I went and cut the groove to hold the side-side brace. Bugger 3mm too wide - opps I should have adjusted the dado blades. No great shakes I’ve ripped some 3 mm shims - full length to hold brace tight in its groove. (2) Love my Jasper Jig but ...Every speaker builder should have a set of Jasper jigs, they just make cutting openings a breeze. Would love a metric version but the 1/16” increments can cope well with almost any size. So after cutting the 6 driver openings and rebates, I set about the front ports. 3” diameter, now I should have stuck to this but for some reason! decided to cut 2 15/16”. So on the jig traced the connector line back to the 15/16 hole set in centre pin and cut first cut of both ports. Now they look wide .... opps. I’d forgotten the convension on the Jasper jig - the connector lines between the incremental holes don’t continue in a ever expanding concentric circle - each inch expands around to the 15/16” mark and then reconnects to its inch start point - I had traced back to the 3 15/16 mark - 1” too wide. Luckly I’d only cut 5 mm deep. So I set the jig and cut the correct size opening and later filled “mistake”. Crossover and wired, side now needs glueing into position
I found this Gap filler, which is supposed to be pushed into small recesses as a filler. However it is great for creating speaker gaskets. Curves naturally around opening and after a short period, compacts flat with the driver tightened down - also cheap as chips
Finally, I remembered to clamp a “sacrificial” block onto the conner to stop tear-out - gawd knows how many times I’ve done that. I love my small Triton router, that under base hood catches most of the dust.
Couldn’t resist getting them running, bases are (very) loosely screw in and front vertical edges will be rounded over and the whole lot veneered - eventually.
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