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I’d been “mulling” this over for ages and dropped across the following design with all the theory and construction details included.
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/search/results/article/1789/
I was coming to a similar solution so simply used the above as all the work had been done for me, so see this link for fuller details. I had been thinking of moving up to a 12” or larger sub but this would have naturally involved a large box. And to be honest, my previous 10” XLS driver was excellent in my main listening room. So I decided to stick with that but try a 10” passive radiator as well.
The only things I have done different to the above design is: -
Panel thickness the deign is for 22 mm MDF and I’ve used 25 mm with slight adjustments in dimensions to maintain internal volumes.
Joints the design shows mitred joints, now I just couldn’t be bothered with this. Using 25 mm board you can get very good flush butt glues joints. To remove the need for clamping I used screws as well. The only disadvantage of this is , on the front baffle there isn’t much material left at the edges once you have cut out the driver openings but once glued into place this is not an issue.
“Sand box” is slightly deeper than the design as I didn’t need such a large amp compartment I thought the extra damping might be useful.
It’s always tricky fitting (sliding) in bracings and internal panels to get really tight fits. So I cut the front, internal and real panels the same size, fixed the front, top and base to one side. Then slide the internal panels with bracinge in from the rear flush to the front and fixed tight to front and top and base. Then placed the rear panel flush onto the internal bracing and fixed that. Finally the second side is fixed to close the box.
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Front, rear baffles and internal partition with bracing already glues and screwed.
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Dry filt just to get alignments
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The ugly shots, warts and all. You can see my idea of not trying to initially create flush edges - thats just too dam hard. But with a router all will come good - see pics below.
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Rear, amp compartment, I filled the top compartment with sand before gluing last side on but you can just see “drain/fill” plug should I even need it.
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After routing all edges flush ...
This guy was going to be just too dam heavy to fabricate then move out of the shed so final build done in my living room.
Feet are actually rubber door stops? they decouple the cabinet from the floor really well.
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Box will finally get veneered some time!
Next job will be to make a grille to cover the front I have embedded 6 Neodymium cylinder magnets into the front baffle. I’ll do the same to the frame for the grille - vola magnetic attachment.
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Front and back are hand painted matt black, the sides and top are Sliced Pacific Maple veneer with three coats of poly.
Oh, the idea about rubber door stops as feet? they tended to be a bit too soft for such a heavy box and were to low. So I replaced them with some circular anodized supports.
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